Having traveled half way through Central America I waited three weeks for a chance of scoring this big wave spot, one of the heaviest if not the heaviest reef in the Central Americas. I arrived at the tail end of the peak swell season and although some fun swells came through they were either to small for the reef or plagued with onshores. On my second to last day there my luck finally changed and the beast of a wave finally came to life with only myself and Australian charger Sebastian Miller as company in the water for a solid low tide session.
Very few people surf this wave at all and it goes almost unridden on the low tide due to the dry rock shelf on the sketchy end section...but this fact did not seem to phase Seb from Mona Vale who was going bomb after bomb and was even rag dolled across the dry reef on a number of occasions. It was such an epic session and I could not help but think that scoring solid slabs of this quality with one other person in the water would be unheard of back home in Australia or almost any other country for that matter. [Continued below]
These photos do the heaviness of the wave no justice at all and make the wave look deceptively inviting, somewhat mellow and make able but believe me this is not the case at all. It is a super shifty unpredictable wave with three distinct sections that can link together on the right angle offering a long wave with multiple barrel sections. Alternatively each section can break as individual wave onto themselves dependent on the angle. The outside Cloudbreak esque section is super fast and down the line. This section wedges on take off and offers a longish unpredictable throaty barrel that often pinches on exit right before the dry rock shelf. If you wipeout here and you are going to be in a world of hurt and will undoubtedly loose a lot of skin in the process on this unforgiving cheese grater. It is difficult to determine from the photos but you would literally come out of the barrel here and almost ride straight onto the dry rock shelf. Sketchy as f@&k! This dry rock shelf (covered on high tide) is where the second ridiculously slabby section of the wave begins. It offers up a Padang Padang style barrel right next to dry reef before running through to the more mellow inside section.
Although I was stoked to have scored such a good day at this reef with the odds against me I still would of killed to have seen this wave break on a really solid swell to gain a glimpse of what this beast is truly capable of. Believe it or not this day only took place during a mid sized swell with a long swell period while all other surrounding spots struggled to break the 3ft mark. It has got to be one of Central America's true big wave spots. [Continued below]
This world class wave is easily one of the best waves I have witnessed during my year long travels in Central America. This big wave spot and swell magnet although rarely surfed is in fact no secret at all and has featured heavily in social media in recent times. However, I have no plans to disclose it's location or even the country of origin. If you know where it is, good on you, don't blow it out and instead go and charge this beast of a wave for yourself, by yourself. Good luck.